【Spain】María Pilar de Castro, PhD in Cellular and Molecular Biology: ‘Bioremodeling with Recombinant Enzymes is the Future’

María Pilar de Castro, PhD in Cellular and Molecular Biology: “Bioremodeling with Recombinant Enzymes is the Future”
The dermoanalyzer consists of a thorough observation of the skin with advanced imaging to determine everything from sun damage to premature aging, and to assess the skin’s condition and needs. (Launchmetrics Spotlight)
After years where exfoliating and accelerating seemed the answer to almost everything, the industry is beginning to look toward more precise treatments capable of improving the skin without subjecting it to constant aggression. In this context, recombinant enzymes are gaining prominence—an active ingredient derived from biotechnology.
The idea is quite simple to understand. Instead of using ingredients that act broadly on the skin’s surface, these enzymes are designed to intervene in specific processes. The goal is not to cause visible peeling or change the face’s appearance overnight, but to promote a more orderly renewal.

In less technical terms, it helps the skin more efficiently remove cells that have already completed their role. This mechanism is related to exfoliation but should not be confused with the effect of a strong acid or a physical scrub. The intention is to facilitate skin renewal without unnecessarily altering the protective barrier.

Recombinant enzymes do not replace ingredients like hyaluronic acid or B vitamins, but rather help them work under more favorable conditions.
María Pilar de Castro, European PhD in Cellular and Molecular Biology and Technical and Strategy Director at Proteos Biotech, summarizes this approach to skincare:

The word bioremodeling may sound a bit cumbersome for a routine done in front of the mirror, but it describes the approach well. It is not about filling wrinkles, tightening the face, or camouflaging imperfections like a makeup product would. The intention is to improve tissue quality while respecting its structure. This philosophy aligns with formulas directed at a specific need, not necessarily transformative ones.

For example, a moisturizing formula may include squalane, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides, while a brightening formula combines vitamin C and kojic acid. A formula dedicated to imperfections contains vitamins A, C, and E along with hyaluronic acid.
There is no need to abruptly abandon all products that already work. Enzymatic cosmetics are not here to banish retinol, hydroxy acids, or niacinamide, but to replace overly abrasive formulas.

After years where exfoliating and accelerating seemed the answer to almost everything, the industry is beginning to look toward more precise treatments capable of improving the skin without subjecting it to constant aggression. In this context, recombinant enzymes are gaining prominence—an active ingredient derived from biotechnology.
By Cris Castany